Stampede Adding a power switch

[Brewboy]

Has anybody put a power switch on their grill?? I have quality weather boxes on my outlet and plan to leave the grill plugged in all the time. HOWEVER, I would prefer it not actually be powered up 100% of the time. I am NOT asking about the wiring schematic, thats pretty straightforward. However switch style and location are of great interest to me. Anybody tackled this yet??

 

[Mike]

I haven't seen anyone add an additional power switches but would be interested to see what you come up with.

 

[stevenorth1]

Install a smart outlet. Then you can turn it off and on with your phone.

 

[Brewboy]

Thanks for the feedback. Thought about that but decided against it because:

1) Outdoor outlets in Minnesota are notoriously flaky at <0F temps

2) The 590 has on/off via WiFi control. One of my concerns was the security of the device (IOT devices are notoriously bad). The thought of someone hacking it, identifying it as a grill, and turning it on is what prompted me to add the old fashioned switch. I guess having to hack two levels of WiFi device is better than one. . .. but not by much.

Disclaimer: Yes, I am a paranoid engineer who deals with internet security issues far to often.

 

[Brewboy]

Adding the switch was as easy as expected. I used a standard Toggle switch with a neoprene boot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QG8TNMZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 Pin On/Off is the easiest to use.

While I was messing with it, I also added a longer power cord.

1) Cut the power cord about where it enters the chassis (see caution below).
2) Attach white and black wires to the switch terminal
3) Pull the old power cord from the chassis
4) Thread the new power cord into the chassis
5) Attach the black and wires to the switch
6) Attach the green wires directly together, no need to "switch" it.
6) Drill a hole for the switch right next to the controller.
7) install the switch
8) install the boot to weatherproof

Cautions/suggestions:
a) My new power cord was slightly larger in diameter; the little plastic fitting to hold it tight when it passes thru the chassis needed to be modified
b) It is easy to cut the white wire to short. It enters the wire bundle and appears to pass straight thru just like the black wire. It does NOT. One wire goes in, 3 white wires come out. Cut the white wire at least 3-4 inches aware from the bundle sleeve.
c) I used a DPDT switch so I could disconnect both hot and neutral. If you use a SPST, route only the black wires to the switch. White wires can be connected directly together just like the green.

 

[NU2SMOKE]

Adding the switch was as easy as expected. I used a standard Toggle switch with a neoprene boot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QG8TNMZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 Pin On/Off is the easiest to use.

While I was messing with it, I also added a longer power cord.

1) Cut the power cord about where it enters the chassis (see caution below).
2) Attach white and black wires to the switch terminal
3) Pull the old power cord from the chassis
4) Thread the new power cord into the chassis
5) Attach the black and wires to the switch
6) Attach the green wires directly together, no need to "switch" it.
6) Drill a hole for the switch right next to the controller.
7) install the switch
8) install the boot to weatherproof

Cautions/suggestions:
a) My new power cord was slightly larger in diameter; the little plastic fitting to hold it tight when it passes thru the chassis needed to be modified
b) It is easy to cut the white wire to short. It enters the wire bundle and appears to pass straight thru just like the black wire. It does NOT. One wire goes in, 3 white wires come out. Cut the white wire at least 3-4 inches aware from the bundle sleeve.
c) I used a DPDT switch so I could disconnect both hot and neutral. If you use a SPST, route only the black wires to the switch. White wires can be connected directly together just like the green.

You do know that without pictures...none of this actually happened ! Its been that way since the Roswell incident!!

 

[Brewboy]

Struggling with how much I want to show. Rewiring the electrical of your grill is not for the neophyte. I don't want any blood on my hands. On the other hand, for those with the confidence to tear into it; I wanted to warn them of any got'chas.

 

[ifican]

Struggling with how much I want to show. Rewiring the electrical of your grill is not for the neophyte. I don't want any blood on my hands. On the other hand, for those with the confidence to tear into it; I wanted to warn them of any got'chas.

This is a safe place, you are never responsible for what knuckleheads do and we all love pics. Also i feel you on general security. I leave mine plugged in all the time but have wondered about that too. Since mine is covered all the time its easy enough to turn off wifi, then turn it back on when i uncover to use. I am old school in the sense i prefer to leave things i intend to use with any regularity plugged in as they will last longer that way than powering on and off as the wear at the circuit level is far greater when doing that.

 

[jdhogfan]

love to see pictures My 590 hasn't even arrived yet and i have these parts in my amazon list to do the mod.

 

[GH41]

I'd worry about having a switch on mine.. Too many cats around here plus wrestling the cover on and off could toggle the switch. I am not so afraid of being hacked as I am of butt-dialing my grill with the cover on it! I will continue to unplug it.

 

[Mastertech59]

I'd worry about having a switch on mine.. Too many cats around here plus wrestling the cover on and off could toggle the switch. I am not so afraid of being hacked as I am of butt-dialing my grill with the cover on it! I will continue to unplug it.

It would be best to keep the grill unplugged when not being used.