Bull Rust treatment suggestions

[k-mob]

I've had my bull for a little over a year, either under the BBQ cover or under an outdoor cover -- never directly exposed to rain. Today, I noticed that a few streaks of rust had developed on the front below the lid. There was never any obvious scratches or trauma to this area, but something must have happened. Anyone have any suggestions for a remedy? I imagine a scotch pad to remove the rust, but any suggestions for sealing it or something to prevent the rust from coming back? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Tony]

I've had my bull for a little over a year, either under the BBQ cover or under an outdoor cover -- never directly exposed to rain. Today, I noticed that a few streaks of rust had developed on the front below the lid. There was never any obvious scratches or trauma to this area, but something must have happened. Anyone have any suggestions for a remedy? I imagine a scotch pad to remove the rust, but any suggestions for sealing it or something to prevent the rust from coming back? Thanks for any advice.

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I’ve had mine since June of this year and I see the same thing on mine as well, I just use a scotch brite pad on it, it stays in a fully enclosed two car garage, never been rained on either, rec tec says these are stainless steel chambers, they must have large quantities of ferrite in the metal content because mine is highly magnetic.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Showing mild corrosion and observing that the metal is magnetic are an indication that these are made from 430 grade stainless steel which is still a good product but doesn't contain as much chromium in the alloy as, for instance, 304 grade used in higher quality (and price) outdoor cook devices. We've had discussions on here in the past where 700 owners had claimed they were told that the Bull was made from 304 which was one of several reasons to choose it over the 590 for example. I was suspicious because the price point for the Bull doesn't reflect that quality level of material. Not that that is a negative in the bigger picture, but as you guys have learned it does mean that greater care/maintenance is required to maintain original appearance as much as possible. Anyway you've confirmed my belief for which I'm grateful.

Now for a suggestion on remediation. A Scotchbrite pad will work as each of you has experienced, but it does alter the brushed finish appearance unless the user is particularly skilled/experienced at finish matching. An effective alternative that does little to nothing (depending on how much/hard you rub) to alter the factory brush appearance yet removes the corrosion would be to use Barkeepers Friend, either liquid or make your own paste with water added to the powder version. The active corrosion remover/converter in it is oxalic acid. There are other products out there that contain the same acid and should work equally as well. Also, slightly more aggressive of an acid would be phosphoric acid, such as in naval jelly or Coca Cola (mild concentration there so might take more work for results). While these are comparatively mild acids and sold widely for consumer use without much restriction it's wise to protect your skin, and even more importantly, your eyes when using these kinds of products.

As for a preventive you could periodically wax it or use some other functionally similar coating product, but in reality that will likely only last until the first or second firing which would probably cook it off. In the end it is just a maintenance item you add to your list along with internal cleanup if maintaining original appearance is important.

 

[Roaniecowpony]

I'm with UB, likely a 400 series stainless or similar, given the magnetic properties people noted. Who knows for sure about the exact alloy, since it's China sourced.

If you're going to use an abrasive on it like Scotchbrite or even a sandpaper, keeping your cleaning strokes in line with the existing "brushed" finish will minimize the appearance change.

I just took a pretty strong magnet and went around my RT-700. The stainless drum has a very strong pull, the front shelf and brackets no pull, the side shelf/controller box has a very light pull, and the cast stainless horn handles have light pull. So, there are at least 3 alloys of stainless on these.

 

[Buckeye smoker]

The bull has a 6 year warranty that may be worth checking into if the problem worsens.
Things may be covered that you think are not.
Ex: I called to ask for a light bulb # and was told "it's a Bull it's under warranty" and they sent me one. I'm not suggesting it's covered or to take advantage of anything, I'm just suggesting a call may be in order if it gets worse, to see if it is.

 

[Uncle Bob]

Those are reasonable adds to the conversation guys. Checking on warrantee can't hurt, but I'd be willing to bet if you looked on the underside of the grill cover there will be a witness mark to match the corrosion mark on the metal. It has the appearance of moisture collecting under the cover where it contacted the metal. Same thing happens to vehicles stored outdoors with a tarp on them for "protection"...…...….bad idea in that case.

Personally I don't recommend scotchbrite application for light corrosion as pictured since it's unnecessarily aggressive. I'll post up a pic of my 590 when I used the Barkeeper's Friend and a terry cloth towel to remove some corrosion (no that's not smoke film) from hi heat operation. The polished spot on the left is the result of 1-2 minutes effort without too much pressure, just persistence. But as mentioned, rub with the existing "grain".

 

[k-mob]

Thanks for all the great replies, everyone. I hadn't gotten around to going at it with the scotch brite, so I'll try the tamer treatments first. I appreciate the heads up! Maybe I'll post my results as well.

 

[James]

Thanks for all the great replies, everyone. I hadn't gotten around to going at it with the scotch brite, so I'll try the tamer treatments first. I appreciate the heads up! Maybe I'll post my results as well.

 

[James]

Just a note on this subject. rust will form on stainless steel if it comes into contact with carbon steel.

 

[k-mob]

I got around yo using barkeepers friend. It was pretty successful at removing the rust (not so much the food-related stains). However, the condition is not back to the normal surrounding surface. In fact, even worse, it revealed some pitting. So none of that is going to buff out. Any suggestions for further treatments to best extend the life (and appearance) of the grill?

I'll note my mild annoyance that the grill is in this condition considering a very cheap gas grill I have left outside for many more seasons and no cover seems to be in better shape on the stainless surfaces.... It hadn't been in contact with any other steel -- it was almost always covered with the brand name rec tec cover.

 

[spartanhuntr]

Does everyone cover their RecTecs? Anyone leave theirs outside uncovered? I have a cover and have been fairly consistent in my use of the cover. However, i did a cook two weeks ago of a pork butt on a late Sat night to early Sunday night. By the time i pulled the butts we were having a snow storm and when my bull cooled enough it was covered in snow.

Over the last two weeks i had to make a business trip to London and so was planning to cover this weekend. It has rained for 48 hours. (I don't want to cover wet).

I am freaking out... How much damage is happening here in the short term?

 

[Uncle Bob]

Between choosing to cover it wet and leaving it the way you have been forced to so far, leaving it uncovered (as long as there's air movement) is better. Covering it wet (or having condensation form under the cover) is what caused the example that prompted this thread.

You might wipe it down with dry towels to remove as much water as possible, or better, if you've got an air compressor blow it down, especially the crevices, nooks and crannies. Check the pellets, especially at the bottom, if they've gotten wet they will begin to crumble.